

Posted by 
Helen I don't often manage to do the workshops run on the 
UK Online Guild of Weavers Spinners and Dyers  although when I do I always really enjoy them. However 
this month 
Debbie Bamford of the Mulberry Dyer is running one entitled Dyeing the Reds.  Debbie came to the very first dyeing workshop I ever ran in 1995 and I think has been dyeing ever since.  She now has a  
successful business and does a lot with the 
re-enactors market and 
over the years has built up a huge knowledge in the  history of dyes, historical recipes and specialises in, amongst other things,   dyeing linen threads. Now it is my turn to sit at her feet and learn. We started off with dyeing lac.
This I have  not done since 
went to my very first workshop twenty 
or so years ago when 
my memory was of a number of us pounding away at the sticky resinous coating to get the red dye and it always seemed too much  hard work.  
Sticklac ,the crude form of lac was also 
very hard to get. Recently however I have used the lac extracts sold by  both 
Tinctoria Dyes and 
Earthues (sold incidentally by the Mulberry Dyer) and loved them being  
slightly redder than cochineal.
Both lac and cochineal  belong 
to the insect dye group,  lac having a range between Tibet and China to Burma Siam and India. ( Gerber, Cochineal and the Insect Dyes). According to 
Cardon  there are 13 different lac insects of 
the 
Genus Kerria but the common Indian Lac insect 
Kerria Lacca is still used on large scale, not for the red dye but for the shellac.  
Kerria Chinensis gives the best red dye (
Cardon) The resin of lac is collected from twigs on which the insects  grows shaping the resin to the twigs,  and  this it is called 
sticklac.  After the dye has been removed the resulting shellac may be melted and dropped forming buttons (button lac) or poured out into thin sheets when it is shellac)
If you want to know how I extracted the dye following Debs recipe you will have to join the 
Uk OnlineGuildof WSD and join the workshops!
I found a 100g  of 
sticklac I had bought from 
Fibrecrafts about 5 years ago lying at the bottom of my stash and I used this  to extract the dye  putting 100g of fibres 
in the dye bath.  Reading more about it in 
Gerbers excellent little book I find that the  dye contents is very low 1/2%-3/4% of 1% of the dry weight of the raw material.
I put cashmere and silk,camel and tussah silk, a handful of teeswater curls and two carrier  rods in the bath.  The camel and  tussah silk came out very blotchy with the camel taking up very little dye and that has gone back to be over painted with more dyes. The teeswater curls is the reddest as you can see.  it is probably better to dye just one type of fibres in the dyebath as one always  seems to grab more dye than the rest.
I loved it however and as soon as I can get some more sticklac from Debbie  I will dye more
Dominique Cardon Natural Dyes Archetype Publications isbn 978-1-904982-00-5
Frederick H Gerber Ccochineal and theInsect Dyes published by the author  isbn 09601814-3-1
ps Debbie has a new blog
 A History of Colour